Temples & Tweens

Hokokuji Bamboo Forest

Hokokuji Bamboo Forest

Imagine a tall, dense bamboo forest. The stalks reach far up into the sky, creating calm shade and a light green glow. You’re walking on a stone path, feeling meditative with each step as the breeze softly rustles the bamboo leaves together. You come to a peaceful open hut serving green tea and think “what a wonderful spot to sit and reflect.”

And then behind you, a tired, cranky voice says, “It all looks the same, can we go now?”

We were so looking forward to a day in Kamakura. The small city, an hour south of Tokyo, was briefly the seat of the military government under shogun Minamoto Yoritomo starting in 1185, and dozens of temples were built during his rule.

With the heat and humidity we’d been experiencing, we curated the must see list of temples down to four. Stocked with water bottles and our Loews cooling towels, we were off!  (A side note about our cooling towels: we look like Boy Scout rejects in them, but the useful comfort they provide makes the embarrassment worthwhile.)

From the get go, the kids were having a rough day. School started back home this week and both kids were feeling sad at not being a part of it.  We know we’ve asked a lot of them (although as Julia likes to point out, we didn’t ask).  We had taken the prior day off from sightseeing to give them chill time so we put tween hormonal bad moods aside and dived into the day.

Great Buddha at Kotokuin Temple

Great Buddha at Kotokuin Temple

 

Hasedera Temple

Hasedera Temple

Shujenji Temple

Shujenji Temple

The bamboo forest was our 2nd to last stop and I was really looking forward to it. Seattle friends had described the tranquility of sitting in the forest having tea and I was hoping to experience a similarly zen moment. But with the bickering and whining increasing with each step into the stone paved forest, this was not to be.

We knew we’d have rough days. Earlier in the week, each family member came up with a “calming routine,” something we could do individually to relax when the world or our little family was driving us crazy. This was an effort to have all of us self-cope vs snapping at each other in times of stress. My calming routine was a series of arm stretches and yawns — I did a lot of them that day.

Tsurygaoka Hachimangu Shrine

Tsurygaoka Hachimangu Shrine

After a terse exchange between the kids, Kyle took Sean in another direction and I gave Julia space. Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed movement and could see her practicing her calming routine, a series of yoga moves, over and over. And in that moment, the context of the day was changed for me. I saw that my kids were learning.

We’ve officially been on our adventure a week now and in that week Sean and Julia have converted currency, purchased subway tickets, identified routes, learned basic phrases, and walked into stores and made purchases on their own. I’m really proud of them. But at the end of the day, if all they learn on this trip is how to cope in a healthy way when life gets difficult, that’s called success.

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Our 1st Night Out (aka Clumsy Navigation)

Tuesday night, feeling the weight of the time difference from our Monday evening arrival, we decided to meander through our quiet Tokyo neighborhood, Setagaya, for a cozy, local restaurant.

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I am called by these small spaces, rich wood throughout, white cloth with Japanese lettering hanging from the doors, red paper lights moving softly in the hot, humid breeze.    We found just that and entered.  I had ramen on the brain.  The menus came, completely in Japanese lettering.  We are…um…in Japan, after all.

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The question was how to order?  1st approach, does anyone speak English?  No.  2nd approach, saying “ramen”…the chef shook his head and we believe looked slightly offended.  3rd approach, quickly translating “bring us the chefs recommendations” on my iPhone using Jibbigo.  Alas, no wifi.

I was getting dubious looks from my family, who I led into this pickle, and the server and chef stood there, looking at me, awaiting an order.  Then I remembered a few plate pictures at the entry way, motioned to the server to follow me and desperately pointed to four items. At one, the chef, who had joined us on the sidewalk, put his hand on his chest and said something that sounded much to me like “liver.”  I made a new pick.

When I returned to the table, Kyle asked “what did you order?”   I reported proudly that I’d ordered fish, dumplings, tofu, and a vegetable cake.  When the dishes came, I discovered I was 1 for 4.

We received the fish, yes, but we also feasted on panko encrusted chicken, an omelette, and a patty of, how should I put it, innards.  We devoured three of the dishes and nibbled and poked at the fourth.

The atmosphere was wonderful, the server and chef so gracious.  The kids impressed me with their willingness to eat unidentifiable foods.  This to me frames up exactly why I wanted to travel…to allow our family unit to truly soak in cultural experiences and manage through them, however clumsily.

The Pack List

Quandary: Eight months + ten countries + three seasons + one backpack = What to wear?

No rtw blog would be complete without the infamous packing list.  It serves as a resource for those other brave souls who climb on the rtw bus after us.  It is meticulously curated to ensure pragmatic efficiency.  Fashion, sadly, takes a subservient role.

I’ve combed rtw blogs for months hungry for packing lists.  The most useful of all was at http://www.answeringoliver.com/2012/02/my-rtw-packing-list.html and you’ll see that my list closely resembles Devon’s.

As our 10-day countdown begins, here’s what we are packing:

Clothing (Rachel’s list – kids & DH are similar)

  • Hats (one baseball & one newsboy)
  • Ex-Officio BugsAway Pant (to keep Dengue fever, malaria & Japanese encephalitis at bay!)
  • Ex-Officio BugsAway Hoody
  • Ex-Officio BugsAway Tee
  • Shorts (1)
  • Capris Pants (2)
  • Belt
  • Quick Drying Dress (1)
  • T-Shirts (3)
  • Tank Tops (2)
  • Sports Bras & Regular Bra
  • Quick Drying Undies
  • Quick Drying Socks
  • Bathing Suit (1)
  • Keen Trail Shoes
  • Teva Sandals
  • Patagonia Fleece Pullover
  • Patagonia Rain Shell
  • Buffs (2)
  • Scarf & necklace (my limited bling)
Eight months of clothes?

Eight months of clothes?

Compression Bag = Magic!

Compression Bag = Magic!

No heels in sight.

No heels in sight.

When a duff becomes the bling.

When a buff becomes the bling.

Electronics

  • iPhone (unlocked)
  • iPad
  • Kindle
  • Assorted Chargers (not shown)
  • Anker External Battery
  • Headphones& Splitter
  • Digital Camera (not shown because I used it to take this pic!)
  • Outlet Converter
  • Headlamp

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Other

  • Doorstop (helps secure doors from the inside if we end up at a sketchy guesthouse)
  • Silk Sleep Sack
  • Point It Dictionary
  • Cheap Sunglasses (I expect to lose them so nice glasses will stay at home!)
  • Carabineers
  • Sewing Kit
  • Clothesline
  • Portable Laundry Soap
  • Portable Fan
  • Ear Plugs & Sleep Masks
  • Duct Tape
  • Barf Bags (I know my family well)
  • Security Belt
  • Baggallini Triple Zip Bag (small bag that attaches to my belt — telling myself its NOT a fanny pack)
  • Instant Cold Towel (Loews)
Travel necessity: mustache duct tape

Travel necessity: mustache duct tape

Medical

  • Malaria Pills
  • Ciprofloxacin (traveler’s diarrhea – fun!)
  • Azithromycin (same as above – hope we don’t need both!)
  • Imodium & Pepto Pills
  • Acetazolamide (altitude sickness)
  • Advil
  • Allegra Allergy Pills
  • Benedryl
  • Epipen
  • Bug Spray w/Deet
  • Neosprin
  • Band-aids
  • Moleskin
  • Antibiotic Wipes & Gel
  • Kleenex
  • First Aid Kit

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Toiletries

  • Mini shampoo / conditioner (purchase upon arrival)
  • Body Wash
  • Face Lotion w/Sunscreen
  • Sunscreen (purchase upon arrival)
  • Hairbrush
  • Headbands
  • Wet Wipes
  • Body Lotion (purchase upon arrival)
  • Toothbrush
  • Toothpaste
  • Floss
  • Blistex
  • Nail Clippers
  • Tweezers
  • Deodorant
  • Razor

Homeschool

  • Singapore Math 7th & 8th Grade Curriculum
  • Two Graph Paper Notebooks
  • Writing Workshop Lesson Plan Loaded on Ipad
  • Two Writing Notebooks
  • Pencils
  • Sharpener
  • Calculator
  • Kindle App Loaded with Fiction & Non-Fiction Books
  • Kids Ipads Fitted with Keyboards & Loaded with QuickOffice
Traveling classroom

Traveling classroom

Documents

  • Passports
  • Immunization Records
  • 2 Sets of Photocopies of the above plus copies of birth certificates, drivers licenses, marriage certificate, health insurance coverage
  • Health Cards
  • Credit and Bank Cards (Capital One Venture Card has no foreign transaction fees)
  • Itinerary & Travel Notes
  • Notebooks of Different Sizes (for journaling & jotting down travel notes)
  • Much of the Above Scanned on iPad

What I Am not Bringing that I will Miss

  • Flat Iron (high maintenance, I know, but I’m just being honest!)
  • Jeans (I live in my jeans but they are too bulky for the trip)
  • FitFlops (DH will be so glad not to see these for 8 months)
  • MacBook Pro (despite much advice from seasoned travelers, I’m only taking my iPad – lugging my 13” MacBook across continents flies in the face of simplification, so I am leaving it in Seattle & hope not to regret it)

I should note that we’ve packed a box of winter clothes to be sent to meet us in Germany.  Now if only it all goes as planned…as I appreciate we won’t really know what we needed and what we could have left behind until we’re actually on the road!

Taking Travel for Granted

Equals Access

U.S. Passport = Access

There are obvious hurdles in planning a RTW trip — time and money top the list.  But what if you had the resources and simply weren’t legally welcome to visit other countries?

Citizens of the U.S., Canada, Australia and the European Union generally can travel anywhere.   For our trip, no visas are needed for half of the countries we’re visiting, and a turnkey tourist visa will suffice for the other half.  That’s not the case for the majority of the world’s population.  If you remove the socio-economic barriers of travel, the simple FREEDOM to travel is not a given for many.

Take Barbara Adam’s family for example.  Barbara is an Aussie married to a Vietnamese man.  Their family resides in Saigon, where they run a popular street food tour business, http://www.saigonstreeteats.com.   Barbara is well traveled and planned a vacation to France for her family.  But try as they might, France would not grant her husband a visa, believing that he presented a risk of staying in Europe to gain a “better” life.  Read her story here: http://m.huffpost.com/us/entry/1451562

Or meet Mina Mahrous, a 20-something Egyptian male studying to become a pharmacist.  Mina is highly interested in seeing the world…and has been consistently turned down for visas and held to higher standards to secure visas.  He wrote an excellent blog on access to travel: http://www.somedayillbethere.com/2012/04/no-not-everyone-can-travel-a-bubble-burster/

I understand that countries need safe guards – this is not a post on the politics of immigration.  Simply, it’s recognition for yet another liberty that I have that others do not and consciousness raising for my small family that global access is currently not a freedom that everyone shares.

What We’re Leaving

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Seattle on a sunny day is a beautiful thing. Sparkling blue seas dotted with steadily gliding ferry boats. Immense craggy mountain ranges topped with snow on nearly every horizon. An expanse of the expected evergreen trees and an unexpected vast variation of green plants, bushes, grass create balance bordering the blue skies and seas.

We live in an admittedly liberal oasis, sometimes forgetting that there’s a significant part of our country that bleeds red. Our beach community is involved and idyllic with sweet surprises, like yarn “bombed” trees, and children and adults alike who stop to pet our dog. A neighborhood blog keeps tabs on all news, big and small, and makes us feel more united. The local elementary school our children attend has high parental involvement and the afternoon pick-up feels like social hour…I half expect to see a parent sipping out of a martini glass as they chat.

A year ago, we purchased and moved into my grandparents home, after painstakingly remodeling it, and its bones provide the deepest serenity…its history a foundation for our family to grow from.

So why leave? Today it’s 77 degrees in Seattle, I paddle boarded in Elliott Bay, meditating on each wave as it undulated toward me. It’s tempting to say, “Heck, let’s stay here…I could do this self-care thing for an entire year.” How decadent.

And that’s exactly it…it’s time for less decadence and more simplicity. When your child asks you to purchase Italian Soda for yet another school celebration and then complains that you purchased the wrong brand…your household is in need of a global reality check.

We cash that check on September 1st.

My New Favorite Book

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If life demanded little of me, I’d spend it reading. On the couch, pile of books at my side, pillows properly fluffed and propped, my body wrapped in a pink snuggie. Ok, maybe lose the snuggie.

A colleague and friend gifted Book Lust To Go to me in light of the impending rtw trip.  It’s written by Nancy Pearl, a beloved Seattle librarian, and the book details recommended reading for global destinations A-Z. Its like candy.

I quickly started in the A section and ordered Adrift from the library – a true story of a man lost at sea for 76 days. I learned all about sea turtle blood enemas — serious knowledge that I’m sure will help me in my next ship wreck. (Facts we generally don’t need to know…sea turtle blood would help quench your unrelenting thirst but it’s poisonous so you need to intake it in a non-traditional manner. I’m considering adding an enema kit to our rtw trip pack list.)

The 2nd book read was A Voyage for Madmen, which chronicles nine sailors who set off individually in a race around the world — only one crosses the finish line.

A theme seems to be developing.

I caught up with a good friend yesterday who is taking two years out of the rat race to live on a boat sailing with her family in the Caribbean and of course I couldn’t keep my mouth shut about these books. I was exactly like that co-worker who tells you their birthing horror stories when you’re 8 months pregnant. Open mouth, insert…snuggie.

Thankfully, my friends are forgiving. Book Lust To Go is such a great gift and I’m looking forward to making my way through the recommended reading from my couch as well as all those couches we encounter on our trip around the world.

Sedona, Grand Canyon, Moab, Oh My!

Devils Garden in Arches

Devils Garden in Arches

I was planning our spring break trip to the Southwest National Parks at the same time as researching our fall in SE Asia.  There was something about the color and vibrancy of Thailand that made Arizona and Utah seem barren, dry, and, frankly…bland.

Wrong again.

The southwestern U.S. is akin to going to Mars (except you wear shorts instead of a space suit).  The landscape is other worldly…pillars of space age rust rock jutting up from mile after mile of dusty, rocky barren land.  The vibrant orange hue of sandstone monuments and arches against the ever reaching blue sky.

The kids and I shared hot Navajo fry bread dipped in honey after a strenuous hike through the vast Grand Canyon…peering down at the deep green Colorado River carving its way as we munched.

It’s all a reminder of the geographic and cultural diversity in my own country.  Our rtw trip is about an overseas experience but our spring break trip was a good reminder that there’s so much to explore in my own backyard.

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Shedding a New Skin

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A year off work is a gift and a luxury.

Think how I’d feel if the year had passed and all I had to show for it was a clean house and being caught up on Netflix.  I’m cognizant not to fritter away this precious time.

The rtw trip is clearly a large part of the gift of a year, however I have 3-1/2 months before lift off.  My goals:

  • Family & friend connection
  • Digital detox (yeah, I’m not quite sure how to write a blog AND have a digital detox)
  • Creative recovery…

…you can be in business and be creative and I’ve been lucky that most of my corporate roles have been about building from scratch or rebuilding…creativity abound.  However if you’re an “all-in” type of person, you can’t give it to work and give it outside of work.  It’s now time for my OWN creative recovery.  What does this look like?  Writing morning pages (3 hand-written semi-conscious pages every morning); walking, running or hiking in nature every day; and…prepare yourselves…Bollywood dance class.  Yes, really.

I can feel these simple steps…already applied…opening up my core.  And it feels …amazing.

One Way to Tokyo…Konnichiwa My Friends!

left turn

I expected some left turns along the way however I didn’t expect them BEFORE we hit the road.  RTW families consistently gave me the advice to travel slow and to not over plan.  I had this nagging feeling that I was failing at both…and I was.

I had every day of our four months in Japan and SE Asia planned and the pace of an average stay was five nights in each location…too brief to get a handle on and appreciation for our surroundings.

Part of slowing down is listening to your gut and last night I canceled all of our SE Asia accommodations.  Tonight, instead of purchasing the planned Global Explorer rtw tickets, I purchased four one way tickets to Tokyo.

I feel liberated!  And grateful that with life starting to slow down, I can hear myself again.

Road Schooling Part II

Education Wherever You Are

Education Wherever You Are

By George, I think I’ve got it! For many of you, this will be a dull post. However for those with wee ones who dream of an escape, this is a practical post. Here’s the approach for taking a year on the road while still paying homage to the Seattle Public School system, so, you know, your darlings will graduate and go on to accomplish great things.

1. Fill out the Declaration of Intent to Homeschool: http://cppp.seattleschools.org/modules/groups/homepagefiles/cms/1708901/File/Declaration%20of%20Intent.pdf and submit to the school district. I was happy to hear that as a college graduate, I qualify to homeschool my lucky little ducks. Poor mallards.

2. Home school my nuggets! Easier said than done, however between Khan Academy, http://www.khanacademy.org, and Stanford online, http://epgy.stanford.edu/, to handle the math and science, I am covering the reading and writing based on where we are in the world. And I’m relying on Japan, SE Asia and South America to add a little art, music, language AND confidence building along the way!

3. Re-enroll the monkeys in the Seattle Public School system in early spring of 2014 for the 2014/2015 school year.

Voila!

Here’s what I know from a life in business, when strategy is implemented, the unplanned gaps appear. So stay tuned for the “solves” along the road.

On a different note, here’s a tease of one of the places we’re staying in Thailand in the national park of Khao Sok: http://www.khaosokaccommodation.com. Monkeys and spiders and snakes…oh my!